YOUR LAUNDRY AREA — Part 4: Keep your dryer flues and connectors short and smooth

YOUR LAUNDRY AREA
Part 4: Keep your dryer flues and connectors short and smooth

Moisture damage and fires can result from improper dryer venting.

Dryer lint, when dry, is a highly flammable material, and the dryer flue can become very hot, possibly resulting in lint fires and flue fires.

Dryer lint, when wet, is very absorbent. A distribution of lint in some areas, like the foundation crawl space (see Figure 1) or the attic (see Figure 2) can cause extensive moisture damage very quickly.

Figure 1Lint accumulation in the foundation crawl space Figure 2Lint accumulation in the attic

Wildlife loves lint, so a lint problem like that shown in Figure 1 and Figure 2 encourages wildlife to find a way to move on in.

Since some of our foundation crawl space areas, like around the bathtub, are open to the wall framing, any unwanted wildlife in the foundation crawl space could get into the structural framing, thereby creating a health and safety hazard.

While there should not be any openings from the attic to the living area, wildlife does have a motive (food and warmth) for finding a way in. I remember being young and hearing my parents talk about rats in the walls. Well, now I know how they got there because there are many openings from the attic into the walls.

Although corrugated plastic (see Figure 3) or corrugated metal foil (see
Figure 4) connectors are typically installed from the dryer to the flue, the length of those connectors should be kept as short as possible, and corrugated materials should not be used as the main dryer flue.

Figure 3Plastic accordion dryer flue connectorFigure 4Metal accordion dryer flue connector

Corrugated plastic and metal foil are easily damaged (see Figure 5) and can result in lint accumulating in the flue (see Figure 6), possibly resulting in dryer inefficiency (longer drying times); heat damage to the plastic; dryer overheating (shorter life expectancy); and possibly dryer, lint, or flue fires.

Figure 5Damaged dryer flue connectorFigure 6Lint accumulation in the dryer flue

If the connector from the dryer to the dryer flue is over three feet long, have a shorter, smooth metal section installed instead of using longer, corrugated connectors.

Flues or flue connectors that are too long (see Figure 7 and Figure 8) can result in lint accumulating in the flue or connector because the dryer blower motor is not powerful enough to force moist, lint-laden air through the long flue or connector.

Figure 7Dryer flue connector that is too long

Figure 8Dryer flue connector that is too long

Once lint accumulates in the flue, there is the possibility of the dryer overheating and causing dryer or dryer flue fires. Flues with excessive bends or an excessive number of bends (see Figure 5 and Figure 8) also can result in lint accumulating in the flue, again with the potential for dryer and dryer flue fires.

Vertical flues, especially if they are corrugated materials and run a long distance (see Figure 9) create the same type of problems since moist, lint-laden air is heavier than normal dry air — a fire waiting to happen.

Figure 9Vertical dryer flue connector that is too long

Previous posts in this series:
     » Part 1: Washer water supply and drainage hoses

     » Part 2: Noisy water supply pipes
     » Part 3: Interior washer locations and drain pans

Do your plant due diligence — Part two

If you missed Part one, find it here: Do your plant due diligence — Part one.

Whenever I do a home inspection, one of the first things I do is simply walk around the property looking at things. One day I took this picture:

Cyperus needs lots of water

The Client buying that property told me on the phone while scheduling the inspection that he had some concerns about sagging floors. No doubt….

Those lime-green plants in the two small sqaures are cyperus, a plant that needs a lot of water to survive. In order to get that water in San Diego with its Mediterranean desert climate, someone has to water them. They won’t survive on our annual average of eleven inches of rain.

Those two square planters are not planters at all. That’s where one would crawl under the house — plumbers to fix leaks, home inspectors to check out the foundation and plumbing, and children to escape punishment.

I couldn’t get under the house but I was pretty sure that the area in that corner — the kitchen and dining room inside — had floor problems. I was correct. All I could do is tell my Client what I thought was going on because I don’t have the luxury of tearing out the Seller’s plants while doing an inspection.

Moral of the story? Just because you see some dirt doesn’t mean you should plant something there. If you do plant something there, do your plant due diligence to determine how big it gets and how much water it needs.

Join me tomorrow for part three.

Do your plant due diligence — Part one

My wise old grandmother, Mary Agnes KirkSeveral decades ago, my wise old grandmother introduced me to cactus and succulents. The rest is history.

I’ve taken that interest and developed it into a passion for landscaping, a passion that complements my passion for real estate and my career as a home inspector. My love of plants and real estate has developed into an intense interest to help people understand how the wrong tree, bush, or ground cover can have devastating effects on their home, effects that might not become visible until many years later.

Here in San Diego, virtually anything will grow because of our Mediterranean temperatures. With the proper amount of watering, those things will grow tall and wide. Some that you’ve never seen bloom before will bloom.

When I was growing up in South Texas, I was quite proud of my Norfolk Island Pine (also called a Star Pine) that had grown to six feet in ten years. Here in the canyons of San Diego, it’s not uncommon to find Norfolk Island Pines that are 35 or 40 feet tall, also in ten years.

Schefflera (umbrella plant)The umbrella tree, or schefflera, is the same. We Texans were proud if they were six feet tall and still had all their lower leaves. Here in San Diego, they not only grow to 20 feet tall, but the darn things bloom! And beautiful blooms they are, too.

Unfortunately, because everything will grow here, people plant plants in the strangest places. Notwithstanding our desert environment with an average of 11 inches of rain a year, people will water their plants to make sure they grow big and strong.

Here’s an example of a ficus tree which not only grew big and strong, but its root system grew wide and destructive:

The tree next door

That tree was not at the home that I was inspecting; it was next door! Yet it had not only destroyed the foundation of the home in the picture, it had also destroyed the foundation of the home to the left, the home that I was inspecting.

Moral of the story? Don’t fall prey to the grocery stores that sell the cute, little ficus trees at all times of the year. Those cute, little ficus trees grow to be big, monster, destructive trees. So do many other small plants commonly sold in grocery stores, discount stores, home improvement stores, and, of course, at plant nurseries.

Join me tomorrow for part two.

Renovating or remodeling? Start with the foundation.

As a former real estate agent several decades ago, and a property investor/flipper, and now as a property consultant/home inspector, I’ve had the opportunity to see the best and worst of renovation and remodeling. My own definition of the two is that remodeling is small scale and involves only select rooms. Renovation gets much more extensive.

I’m sure we’ve all remodeled a kitchen or bathroom. But how many of us have remodeled every room in the house, and replaced every appliance in the house, and replaced the roof, repaired the foundation, redone the exterior walls, renovated the fireplace and chimney, installed new doors and windows, etc.? That’s renovation. Regardless of whether or not you’re remodeling a room or renovating the structure, I have just one suggestion:

  • Start with the foundation.

If you follow that suggestion, 99% of the time your remodeling and renovation will hold up. On the other hand, if you remodel a room but don’t address any foundation problems, it’s highly likely that you’ll get cracks in the walls, ceilings, and the beautiful tile floor you just installed.

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been in renovated homes over in Bankers Hill, Mission Hills, and Kensington where the beautiful remodeling and renovation was done “just last year” but is already full of cracks again. When I crawl under the house, well, it’s no wonder. Sometimes I wonder what is holding the house up.

Here are some interesting foundation work in homes that I’ve inspected. All of them were in homes that had been renovated or the owners consulted me about how to upgrade their foundations so that they wouldn’t have problems with their renovation and remodeling.

The following picture shows foundation renovation. I have not been able to find the design specifications for bent nails, perhaps because there are none.

Bent nails have no engineering specifications

In the following picture, you can see the brand new concrete piers that have been installed, but all the soil around the footings is gone!

Foundation soil washed away

Unfortunately, the tile floor, installed just a few months ago, had cracks everywhere. The owners were considering suing the floor installation people, but I believe I talked them out of it. It took a couple of months working on this problem to determine where all that soil went, but ultimately we did. Turns out that a few years previous, the city had come in and poured a new street drainage culvert to the side of this house. However, no one went out during our short rainy season to determine if the culvert was functioning properly. It wasn’t. Every time it rained, the water was running through this foundation, right to left, and carrying all the soil away. It took a couple of years to re-work the foundation and replace the tile floors, mainly because of the expense involved.

In the following renovation, a large eucalyptus tree had been removed from near the house foundation.

Tree trunks have no engineering specfications

Hey, why not use that large tree trunk to help support the foundation? This is another instance where I could not find any structural engineering specifications for the tree trunk.

In the following picture, just a small corner of the house was sagging, so some good river rock was supposed to solve the problem.

River rock being used to support house

As you can see, that front one isn’t supporting anything. This type of interesting fix could prevent the corner from sagging further, but it doesn’t address the sagging that has already occurred.

Finally, I find the following type of damage way more often that one might expect.

Foundation damage caused by heating and cooling professional

Usually it is caused by plumbers, but in this one, the heating and cooling company that was hired to remove the old floor heater and put in nice central heating and cooling found that the darn old foundation wall was in the way, so they just blasted through it.

Even if you recognize the fact that the foundation needs to be addressed before doing any other remodeling or renovation, once the foundation repairs have been done, have a or home inspector check up on those repairs. The good eyes of a third party can help protect your investment before the company’s warranty on their work expires.

There’s more to being a home inspector than just doing home inspections for buyers and pre-listing inspections for sellers.